Wednesday, June 2, 2010

Ramps and Morels














The field site we are working at (the Flambeau State Forest) is filled with ramps (Allium tricocum, aka wild leeks). In Virginia on the A.T., hiker friends talked about a popular mountain festival devoted entirely to the celebration of ramps. I always thought it was a little weird, until this month, when I encountered ramps for the first time. They have a spicy, savory flavor that is best described as a cross between onions and garlic. You can eat the entire plant - leaves, stem, and bulbous roots. I have been throwing them in all of my cooked food - quiche, stirfries, sauces, on pizza!, etc, but also wanted to find a way to preserve them for times of less-plenty. I found a webpage devoted to the preservation of wild leeks, and tried a few things. When I arrived in Wisconsin in the beginning of May, ramps were in full verdant glory. This is the time to pick them. The leaves can supposedly be used to make a mean pesto, or blanched and frozen for future soups. In the last couple of weeks, however, the leaves have died back, and the only identifier is the flower head - a succulent-looking, maroon 6-inch tall stalk with a messy little explosion of white flowers on the end. This is how I have been collecting the bulbs.

It is finally time to learn how to pickle. My last attempt at canning was in 2008, when I made a single (proud) can of Russian olive jam. I used an unboiled salsa jar, and crushed the little tart berries in a piece of mesh I had removed from a thrift store dress. Considering my lack of knowledge and/or supplies, the jam was pretty good. So, when I discovered that a recommended way of preserving ramps was to pickle them in jars, I just had to try it. This time, I bought canning jars from the store. I bought a jug of vinegar, and even bought some spices that I will likely never use for anything else (mustard seed, celery seed?). At the end of work, while the others walked quickly towards the car, I rummaged through the woods, stopping to pull ramps often, and then ran to catch up. I had enough ramps for 3 cans of pickles. The first jar did not seal, but the button on top seals when it is in the fridge? This I do not understand. Of the next two jars, one sealed, and one did not. I have to admit, my biggest accomplishment of the week may be that jar of ramps sealing. Honestly, I have no idea what to do with pickled ramps. I am also not quite sure how long to let me jars sit before the pickles are... pickled?














Perhaps more exciting was our discovery of a little forest lair of morels - that brain-looking fungus so sought after by foragers. A coworker is a serious mycophile, and she discovered them on the side of one of our paths. I don't know how to describe the taste of sauteed morels and ramps. Delicious and earthy (not in a eating-dirt kind of way, more in an eating complex untamed flavors kind of way).